Ana Megawati
The serene Oxfordshire landscape, alive with the cascading trills of skylarks and the delicate hues of pink and white hawthorn blossoms, provided a picturesque backdrop for a journey celebrating 125 years of the Camping and Caravanning Club (CCC). This commemorative expedition, undertaken on an e-bike, commenced on the outskirts of Oxford, a city steeped in history, guiding the rider along National Cycle Route 57 towards Walton-on-Thames. This unique trip blended modern transport with a reverence for the past, echoing the adventurous spirit of the club’s founders while traversing routes that have witnessed over a century of outdoor exploration.
A Modern Pilgrimage Commences: Blending Tradition with Technology
Departing from Jericho, a vibrant Oxford district, the journey unfolded as a 60-mile cycling and camping odyssey. The choice of an e-bike, a contemporary marvel, served as a subtle nod to the enduring spirit of innovation that has characterized outdoor pursuits since the late 19th century. This mode of transport allowed for an immersive experience, revealing "secret passageways" within familiar landscapes and underscoring how technology can enhance access to nature, much as the "safety cycle" did for its era. The destination, Walton-on-Thames, held particular significance as the site of one of the oldest campsites within the expansive CCC network, providing a tangible link to the club’s origins.
The Camping and Caravanning Club, now a cornerstone of British outdoor leisure, began its life in 1901 as the Association of Cycle Campers. Its genesis was in Oxford, born from a shared vision between its founder, Thomas Hiram Holding, and his friend, Rev. E.C. Pitt-Johnson. Both keen enthusiasts of the nascent hobby, they recognized a burgeoning demand for organized camping. Their initial meeting in Oxford led to their election as president and secretary, respectively, laying the foundation for an organization that would grow to serve hundreds of thousands of outdoor enthusiasts. This foundational moment in Oxford established a tradition of community and shared adventure that persists to this day.
Thomas Hiram Holding: A Pioneer of Outdoor Leisure
Thomas Hiram Holding (1844-1929) was far more than just a club founder; he was a visionary whose innovations profoundly shaped the early days of camping and cycling. His early life, including a childhood wagon trek across the North American prairies, instilled in him a deep love for the outdoors. Initially, his camping experiences involved canoe trips in Ireland. However, a pivotal moment occurred when a friend sought his assistance in attaching camping gear to a tandem bike for a week-long tour in Britain. This challenge ignited Holding’s imagination, leading him to declare, "There was something in it," a sentiment immortalized in his 1897 book, Cycle and Camp.
Holding’s contributions extended to practical gear development. He was instrumental in popularizing the "safety cycle," a precursor to the modern bicycle, which offered greater stability and ease of use compared to the unwieldy penny-farthing. Beyond bicycles, Holding designed early lightweight tents, collapsible poles, and specialized cycle touring bags, all aimed at making outdoor adventures more accessible and enjoyable. Jo Cartwright, the CCC archivist, notes that Holding "understood the health and wellbeing benefits people gained from camping," suggesting he would have readily embraced contemporary innovations like the e-bike, which similarly aims to broaden participation. His seminal work, The Campers Handbook, published in 1908, further cemented his legacy, providing guidance that resonates with principles of sustainable and enjoyable camping even today.
The Evolution of Camping: From Humble Tents to Modern Conveniences
The landscape of camping has transformed dramatically since Holding’s era. While motorhomes, caravans, and glamping options have become increasingly prevalent, the CCC proudly maintains its commitment to traditional tent camping. The club reassures its members that "humble tents are very much still welcomed on its sites," a policy that honors its roots. This ethos was evident during the journey, as the rider’s tent, compactly stowed on the e-bike, symbolized the enduring appeal of minimalist outdoor living.
The first overnight stop, Bella Vista Camping in Radnage, exemplified this blend of tradition and modernity. This family-run club site, strategically located on the Chiltern Cycleway, offered a dedicated field for tents alongside a paddock of Soay sheep and alpacas. While providing contemporary amenities such as hot showers and proper toilets, it retained the rustic charm characteristic of early campsites. This site, like many within the CCC network, adapts to changing needs while preserving the core experience of connecting with nature.
Navigating Historic Routes: A Journey Through Time and Landscape
The cycling route itself was a tapestry of historical and natural beauty. Eastward from Oxford, quiet roads led through Wheatley and Thame, where a pause at The Old Fisherman for refreshment provided a glimpse into local life. The journey then transitioned onto the Phoenix Trail, a segment of Route 57, whose straight lines bear testament to its former life as a disused railway track to Princes Risborough. This transformation of old infrastructure into cycleways is a hallmark of modern sustainable travel planning, providing traffic-free corridors for recreation.
As the terrain shifted, skylarks gave way to red kites, soaring above the easy track. The route passed significant historical remnants, including the old station building at Bledlow and the abandoned platform of Towersey Halt, a stop that ceased operation in 1963. These historical markers offered poignant reminders of past modes of transport and community life, juxtaposed with the contemporary experience of cycling. The ease of the e-bike on these varied terrains highlighted its role in democratizing cycling, allowing individuals of differing fitness levels to engage in long-distance tours.
Walton-on-Thames: A Century of Camping by the River
The second leg of the journey took the rider from the Chilterns southwards, navigating country lanes skirting High Wycombe, through the bustling Thames-side towns of Marlow and Cookham, and along narrow cycle paths between Maidenhead and Eton. The public’s curiosity about the e-bike setup at places like the Crocus cafe in Dorney mirrored the inquisitive reactions Holding might have encountered when showcasing his innovative cycle camping methods over a century ago.
Windsor Great Park offered an unexpected highlight, its well-maintained roads providing a stark contrast to the challenging gravel tracks encountered descending into Egham. Designated bike lanes through Staines and Chertsey then facilitated a smooth completion of the remaining miles, demonstrating the growing investment in cycling infrastructure across the UK.
The arrival at Walton-on-Thames was marked by a final, fitting treat: a ferry crossing over the Thames from Shepperton to Weybridge. This segment was particularly symbolic, as the very first campsite in the CCC network was once situated on one of the islands in this stretch of the river, though it closed in 1909. The Walton CCC campsite, opened in 1913, was described in a 1963 Golden Jubilee Souvenir booklet as a place of "homemade tents, bamboo poles, hurricane lamps and wood fires." Today, while it primarily caters to motorhomes and caravans due to a lack of fixed facilities, the spirit of self-sufficiency endures. The rider’s use of an eco-friendly dry-powder toilet, the "Poopaloo," exemplified this modern adaptation to minimalist camping. The sight of a small hut filled with sepia photographs of 100-year-old tents next to the pitch served as a powerful visual bridge across the club’s extensive history.
Revisiting Holding’s Legacy: Canoeing and Social Change
The journey concluded with a direct homage to Thomas Hiram Holding’s earlier camping adventures: a day spent canoeing on the Thames. Trading pedals for oars, thanks to Andy of Hampton Court Paddle Sports, located a mere 10-minute cycle from the campsite, the experience allowed for sightseeing at a slower, more reflective pace. The contemporary choice of falafel from Mezzet Box for lunch stood in humorous contrast to Holding’s documented meals of "fried herring and boiled trout," highlighting the evolution of outdoor dining. The day ended with a drink at The Anglers, a pub built on the riverbanks in 1870, with the canoe tied up beside the table, completing a full circle of riverine exploration.
Reading Holding’s The Campers Handbook that night, particularly his descriptions of appropriate attire for female cycle campers – a skirt "that finishes three inches off the ground, with no slippery lining to avoid catching on the knickerbockers" – provided a moment of reflection on the significant social changes over the past 125 years. The ability of a lone woman to undertake such a trip, dressed in modern cycling leggings, underscores the progress in gender equality and outdoor accessibility.
Broader Implications: Accessibility, Community, and the Future of Outdoor Recreation
The 125th anniversary journey underscores several key trends in outdoor recreation. The rise of e-bikes, for instance, is making cycle touring more accessible to a wider demographic, including older individuals or those with varying fitness levels, thereby expanding the potential for participation in active holidays. This technological adoption aligns with Holding’s own embrace of the "safety cycle" as a means to popularize outdoor activities.
The CCC’s remarkable growth from 150 initial members to over 300,000 households reflects the enduring appeal of camping and caravanning as affordable, community-focused, and nature-immersing forms of leisure. While the balance between tents, motorhomes, and glamping options continues to evolve, the club’s commitment to accommodating diverse preferences ensures its relevance in a changing world. The journey also highlighted the increasing importance of dedicated cycle routes and sustainable infrastructure in promoting active tourism, contributing to both public health and local economies.
Despite the profound changes in equipment, transport, and social norms, the core essence of outdoor adventure remains. Thomas Hiram Holding’s vision of cycle camping as a "power" that popularized camping continues to resonate. While cycle camping might now be a minority pursuit compared to other forms of outdoor leisure, this anniversary trip served as a powerful reminder that within the intricate networks of towns, cities, and natural landscapes, the most enriching journeys are still often those "powered by pedals and curiosity."
Logistical Information and Acknowledgements:
eBike hire for this commemorative journey was provided by Bainton Bikes in Oxford (e-bikes from £65 for 3 days). Accommodation included pitches at Bella Vista Radnage (from £19 a night) and Walton-on-Thames campsite (from £20 for two nights for members, £35 for non-members). Annual Camping and Caravanning Club membership starts from £56.95. Canoeing services were provided by Hampton Court Paddle Sports.
