Ronny Sianturi
Chef Eric Greenspan, a recognizable figure in the Los Angeles culinary landscape and a frequent presence on food television, has unveiled Mish, his contemporary interpretation of the traditional Jewish delicatessen, now open in the Mid-City neighborhood. This venture marks a deeply personal culinary exploration for Greenspan, who has long admired chefs who draw inspiration from their childhood memories and family traditions. "I’ve always been jealous of chefs who’ve explored their own personal culinary memories as children and their own family culinary traditions," Greenspan stated. "I’ve never done that in my career – until now."
Greenspan’s illustrious career includes apprenticeships under culinary titans such as Alain Ducasse, Ferran Adria, and Joachim Splichal. However, his fascination with delicatessens began much earlier, evolving into what he describes as a lifelong "student of the game." His early pilgrimages to iconic establishments like Katz’s in Manhattan solidified his appreciation for the genre. Yet, Greenspan posits that the traditional deli format is ripe for reinvention to appeal to the evolving tastes of younger generations. "I’m cooking for 20-, 30- and 40-year-olds and their kids – not 60-, 70- and 80-year-olds," he explained, signaling a clear demographic shift in his target audience.
"I love the legacy Jewish delis; I stand on the shoulders of giants," Greenspan acknowledged, underscoring his respect for the establishments that paved the way. "But not much has changed in the past 65 years. And yet the perception of Jewish food has changed, including in L.A." He points to the burgeoning popularity of Levantine-inspired eateries in Los Angeles, such as Bavel in Downtown LA and Avi Cue in Studio City, as evidence of this culinary evolution. Greenspan’s ambitious vision for Mish was concisely articulated in his "elevator pitch": "I wanted Gjusta, but J-E-W," referencing the acclaimed Venice restaurant, Gjusta, known for its elevated approach to casual dining. This comparison highlights his desire to imbue the deli experience with a similar sense of contemporary relevance and culinary sophistication. Other notable next-generation Jewish eateries in the area that contribute to this evolving landscape include Belle’s in Highland Park and Courage Bagels in Virgil Village, further indicating a vibrant and diverse Jewish food scene in Los Angeles.
Mish: A Culinary Tapestry of Tradition and Innovation
Located on La Brea Boulevard, just south of 1st Street, Mish operates as a non-kosher establishment, offering a menu that thoughtfully navigates the spectrum of Jewish deli standards. These classic dishes, originating from Eastern Europe and Americanized along the Eastern Seaboard, include beloved staples like chopped liver, fried kreplach, matzah ball soup, potato latkes, and noodle kugel. Greenspan’s commitment to authenticity with a modern twist is evident in dishes like the Reuben, which is "griddled in schmaltz," he assures. This endeavor follows a prior, albeit brief, exploration of the deli concept with Fleishik’s, a kosher establishment that had a run in Los Angeles a decade prior. Greenspan’s extensive culinary background also encompasses other successful ventures, including the seafood specialist Mare in Silver Lake and the New American restaurant The Foundry on Melrose Avenue. His consulting work has also extended to large-scale operations, notably scaling up MrBeast Burger.
Mish’s culinary aperture extends significantly beyond the traditional Ashkenazi framework, embracing the broader diaspora of Mizrahi and Sephardic Jewry. Diners can anticipate inventive interpretations of dishes such as the Persian frittata kuku sabzi, a contemporary take on toad in the hole featuring shakshuka, and sabich reimagined in a bagel format. "My chicken salad has amba," Greenspan revealed, showcasing the integration of Middle Eastern flavors. "My pastrami’s rub brings in cardamom. We have a hummus bowl." These thoughtful additions demonstrate a deliberate effort to reflect the diverse culinary heritage within Jewish culture, offering a more comprehensive and inclusive deli experience.
A Sophisticated Beverage Program and Evening Ambiance
Complementing the innovative food menu, Mish boasts a sophisticated cocktail program curated by renowned barman Julian Cox. The beverage offerings include an array of daytime matcha creations, such as lemon halva with salted tahini cream, and a banana Einspanner infused with turmeric and saffron. In a move to further enhance the dining experience, Greenspan and his operating partner Bill Chait, a seasoned restaurateur behind projects like Republique and Tartine, plan to extend their operating hours. The evening service, to be presented under the moniker "Bar Mitzvah," will feature vinyl records played on a DJ rig, aiming to evoke a vibrant and convivial atmosphere. "Kind of like a Kibbitz Room situation," Greenspan commented, drawing a parallel to the well-loved annex of the venerable Canter’s deli, suggesting a space for casual conversation and relaxed enjoyment.
Navigating Controversy: The Tesla Diner Precedent
Greenspan’s most high-profile and, at times, controversial project was the recent opening of the Tesla Diner in Hollywood. Bill Chait brought Greenspan on as a consultant for this venture while simultaneously developing the concept for Mish. Greenspan described the Tesla Diner experience as "the craziest fucking thing I’ve done in my time," driven by the allure of a complex logistical challenge undertaken under intense public scrutiny. He elaborated, "Who wants to stand in the middle of a tornado and control it? I do. It’s about attention, emotion, effort, challenge."
The operational dynamics at the Tesla Diner were reportedly challenging, with Greenspan noting that Tesla’s executives were "not the easiest people to work with." He admitted that he did not anticipate becoming embroiled in the backlash directed at CEO Elon Musk’s political leanings. The diner’s debut coincided with Musk’s tenure as a senior advisor to former President Donald Trump, a period marked by significant political polarization. "I had started the project with the hubris of a standard liberal Democrat who thought that there’s no way Trump’s going to win this goddamn thing again," Greenspan reflected, referencing the 2024 presidential election. This experience underscores the complex intersection of business, politics, and public perception in today’s interconnected world.
Mish as a Beacon of Jewish Culture in Challenging Times
Greenspan is acutely aware that launching a Jewish deli in 2026, amidst a notable increase in antisemitic incidents globally, could be perceived as a political statement. However, he firmly believes the timing is precisely right. "People ask me, ‘Is now the time to do a Jewish restaurant?’ I say, ‘Now is exactly the time to do it.’" He speaks candidly about the "terrible shit going on in this country right now towards my people," and views Mish as an opportunity to actively contribute to the positive narrative surrounding Jewish identity and culture. "I’d like to replicate [Mish]," he stated, emphasizing his ambition for the concept’s growth. "I want to bring into the world, in my own way, what’s beautiful about Jews and Jewish life. A deli brings people together. It’s a center for community. Not just for Jewish community, but community as a whole. It’s a culinary multi-state solution."
This sentiment positions Mish not merely as a restaurant but as a cultural institution designed to foster connection and celebrate heritage. In an era marked by heightened social and political tensions, Greenspan’s endeavor to create a space that embodies the warmth, inclusivity, and communal spirit often associated with Jewish delis takes on a profound significance. By infusing classic dishes with contemporary flair and embracing a broader spectrum of Jewish culinary traditions, Mish aims to serve as a vibrant testament to the enduring appeal and adaptability of Jewish food culture. The broader implications of Mish’s success could extend beyond the culinary realm, offering a model for how cultural establishments can act as unifying forces and positive counterpoints in times of division. The restaurant’s commitment to community building, coupled with its innovative approach to a beloved culinary genre, suggests a promising future for both Greenspan’s vision and the evolving landscape of Jewish cuisine in Los Angeles and beyond.
