Nila Kartika Wati
The fashion industry is increasingly grappling with a critical challenge: the premature scaling of emerging brands. This phenomenon, driven by a complex interplay of market expectations, investor pressures, and the relentless pursuit of rapid growth, often leads to unsustainable business models and eventual failure. In a candid discussion with The Business of Fashion, six designers participating in RaiseFashion’s 2026 Masterclass – Daveed Baptiste, Greg Jackson, Haoran Li, Hiywet Mimi Girma, Mark Grattan, and Olivia Cheng – have shed light on the immense pressure to expand before a brand has solidified its foundations, and the crucial role of mentorship, robust networks, and specialized expertise in fostering enduring success.
RaiseFashion, an organization dedicated to supporting emerging Black and Latinx fashion entrepreneurs, has identified this issue as a significant hurdle for its cohort. The 2026 Masterclass, a selective program designed to equip designers with the strategic tools and industry connections necessary for long-term viability, has become a vital platform for addressing these challenges. The program, which typically spans several months, involves intensive workshops, one-on-one mentorship sessions, and access to a curated network of industry veterans, investors, and service providers. This year’s cohort represents a diverse range of design aesthetics and business ambitions, all united by the common goal of building resilient and scalable fashion enterprises.
The Perils of Premature Expansion
The designers in RaiseFashion’s 2026 Masterclass shared a common sentiment: the overwhelming urge to grow quickly, often outpacing the development of essential operational infrastructure and financial stability. "There’s this pervasive narrative in fashion that success is synonymous with rapid expansion," noted Daveed Baptiste, whose eponymous brand has been gaining traction for its innovative approach to sustainable menswear. "The pressure to increase production volume, secure larger retail partnerships, and achieve a certain revenue target within a short timeframe can be immense. If you don’t have the right systems in place, it can quickly become a recipe for disaster."
This pressure is exacerbated by a fashion ecosystem that often rewards perceived rapid growth, sometimes without scrutinizing the underlying health of the business. Investors, eager for substantial returns, may push for aggressive scaling strategies that can strain a young brand’s resources. Greg Jackson, founder of a contemporary streetwear label, elaborated on this point: "We’re often told to ‘think big’ from day one. While ambition is crucial, it needs to be grounded in reality. If your supply chain can’t handle increased orders, or if your marketing spend outpaces your customer acquisition cost, you’re setting yourself up for a fall."
The designers revealed that this pressure often manifests in difficult choices, such as taking on debt prematurely, over-investing in inventory that may not sell, or expanding into markets without adequate market research. Haoran Li, whose avant-garde womenswear has garnered critical acclaim, stated, "The fear of missing out, or FOMO, is very real. You see other brands growing, and you feel like you need to keep pace. But if you scale without a clear understanding of your target market’s purchasing power or your own production capacity, you can end up with unsold stock and a depleted bank account."
The Power of Mentorship and Networks
A recurring theme among the Masterclass participants was the transformative impact of RaiseFashion’s structured support system. Access to experienced mentors who have navigated similar challenges proved invaluable. Hiywet Mimi Girma, whose brand focuses on artisanal techniques and cultural heritage, emphasized the importance of guidance from those who have "been there and done that." "Having mentors who can offer practical advice, not just theoretical concepts, is a game-changer," she said. "They can help you avoid common pitfalls, refine your business strategy, and provide objective feedback that you might not get from your immediate circle."
The program’s emphasis on building a strong network was also highlighted as a critical component of sustainable growth. Olivia Cheng, a designer known for her sophisticated womenswear, noted, "The connections you make through a program like this are invaluable. It’s not just about meeting potential investors, but also about connecting with suppliers, manufacturers, marketing experts, and even fellow designers who can offer support and collaboration." The ability to tap into a trusted network for advice on everything from legal contracts to production challenges can significantly reduce the risk associated with scaling.
Mark Grattan, whose brand champions thoughtful construction and premium materials, echoed this sentiment. "RaiseFashion provides a curated ecosystem. It’s not just about individual introductions; it’s about building relationships within an industry that can often feel opaque and exclusive. Knowing who to call when you have a specific problem, or who to trust with a critical aspect of your business, is essential for building a company that lasts."
Building for Longevity, Not Just Launch
The core philosophy underpinning RaiseFashion’s Masterclass appears to be a shift in focus from rapid, potentially fleeting, growth to building businesses with enduring foundations. This involves a more strategic approach to scaling, prioritizing operational efficiency, financial prudence, and a deep understanding of the brand’s core values and customer base.
"It’s about building a marathon business, not a sprint," stated Baptiste. "That means investing in your supply chain, refining your product development process, understanding your margins, and building a loyal customer base that believes in your brand’s mission. Scaling is a consequence of a strong, well-managed business, not the sole objective."
The designers are learning to evaluate opportunities not just by their potential for immediate revenue but by their alignment with the brand’s long-term vision and its capacity to be executed effectively. This includes a more discerning approach to wholesale orders, direct-to-consumer strategies, and even the timing of new product launches.
The Broader Implications for the Fashion Industry
The insights shared by the RaiseFashion Masterclass participants reflect a growing awareness within the fashion industry of the need for more sustainable and responsible growth strategies. The traditional model of rapid expansion, often fueled by venture capital and a focus on rapid market capture, is increasingly being questioned.
Data from industry reports supports this concern. A recent analysis by McKinsey & Company indicated that a significant percentage of fashion startups fail within their first five years, with operational challenges and unsustainable financial models cited as primary reasons. The report also highlighted the growing importance of supply chain resilience and ethical production practices, factors that are often compromised in the rush to scale.
Furthermore, changing consumer preferences are playing a role. Today’s consumers are increasingly conscious of brand values, sustainability, and the human cost of fast fashion. Brands that prioritize ethical practices, quality, and authentic connection with their customers are more likely to build lasting loyalty, which is a more sustainable driver of growth than fleeting trends or aggressive marketing.
The emphasis on mentorship and community support, as exemplified by RaiseFashion, represents a vital shift towards a more collaborative and supportive industry ecosystem. By investing in the foundational strength of emerging designers, organizations like RaiseFashion are not only fostering individual success stories but also contributing to a more robust, resilient, and responsible future for the fashion industry as a whole. The designers are not just creating clothes; they are building businesses designed to weather economic storms and contribute meaningfully to the cultural and economic landscape for years to come. The lessons learned within this Masterclass serve as a crucial reminder that true success in fashion is not just about how fast you can grow, but about how well you can build to last.
