Ferry Irwandi
On a crisp March morning in 2025, Daniel Humm, the visionary chef behind New York City’s three-Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park, stood in the rugged, scrubby highlands of Crete, witnessing a ritual that has remained largely unchanged for millennia. Accompanied by his core culinary team, Humm had traded the sterile, high-tech environment of a Manhattan kitchen for the winding roads and steep limestone inclines of the Aegean’s largest island. Their destination was a mitato—a traditional vaulted stone hut used by local shepherds—where they followed a goatherd to participate in a process that Humm would later describe as a "profound spiritual experience."
The expedition was not merely a vacation but a rigorous two-week culinary immersion designed to recalibrate the team’s understanding of the relationship between the earth, the animal, and the plate. By participating in the humane slaughter of a goat, preparing the meat using ancestral methods, and sharing a communal meal with their hosts, the Eleven Madison Park team sought to internalize a philosophy of "respect" that Humm believes is the bedrock of Greek gastronomy. This journey marks a pivotal moment in Humm’s career as he prepares to bridge the gap between his recent experiments in strictly plant-based fine dining and a new, holistic approach to sustainable cuisine.
The Evolution of Eleven Madison Park and the Catalyst for Change
The context of this research trip is rooted in a significant shift within the New York dining scene. In June 2021, Eleven Madison Park (EMP) made global headlines by reopening as an entirely plant-based establishment, a bold move intended to challenge the environmental impact of industrialized meat production. While the restaurant maintained its three Michelin stars during this period, the transition was met with both critical acclaim and industry skepticism. By October 2025, the restaurant’s direction had evolved further, seeking a middle ground that emphasizes "plant-forward" sustainability without the rigid constraints of total veganism.
The inspiration for the Greek immersion can be traced back to a single lunch Humm experienced at Taverna Oikonomou in Athens during a previous visit. "We were 80 percent through the meal and we had basically only eaten vegetables," Humm noted, reflecting on the natural efficiency of the Mediterranean diet. The realization that Greek cuisine had achieved sustainability and health through tradition—rather than modern culinary engineering—prompted Humm to organize a deep dive for his staff.
To facilitate this, Humm collaborated with Vassilis Bakasis, the owner of Oikonomou, and Manolis Papoutsakis, the chef-owner of Pharaoh in Athens. Together, they curated an itinerary that spanned the mountainous interior of Crete, the terraced landscapes of Tinos, and the bustling urban food centers of the capital.
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Chronology of the Expedition: From Mountain Peaks to the Aegean Coast
The research trip was structured as a three-stage exploration of Greek food systems: the preservation of ancient mountain traditions in Crete, the innovative resource management on the island of Tinos, and the synthesis of old and new in Athens.
Stage 1: The Cretan Interior and UNESCO Biosphere Reserves
The journey began in Crete, an island that Humm describes as possessing its own distinct culinary category. The team stayed at the Milia Mountain Retreat, an eco-resort designed in the albergo diffuso style, which integrates guest accommodations into a restored 17th-century settlement. This location served as a base for foraging wild mountain greens, known locally as horta, which are a staple of the Cretan diet and are celebrated for their high antioxidant content.
A focal point of the Cretan leg was a visit to Ntounias, a farm-to-table restaurant located in the hills above Chania. Here, the kitchen operates without electricity, utilizing clay pots over open wood fires. This method of slow cooking, which relies on the thermal properties of the earth and wood, provided the EMP team with a masterclass in patience and flavor extraction. The region’s status as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve further highlighted the importance of protected farming practices and the preservation of heirloom ingredients that are resilient to the local climate.
Stage 2: Tinos and the "Handmade Island"
Moving 140 miles north to Tinos, the team encountered a landscape shaped by human ingenuity. Tinos is famous for its intricate stone terracing, or pezoules, which allow for agriculture on steep, wind-swept slopes. Humm observed that these terraces are not just agricultural tools but ancient engineering feats that prevent soil erosion and manage water scarcity—issues that are increasingly relevant to modern global agriculture.
Guided by chef Marinos Souranis of the restaurant Marathia, the team foraged for wild artichokes and rock samphire along trails that have been used for millennia. Souranis introduced the team to his experiments in dry-aging fish, a technique that combines modern temperature control with traditional preservation logic. By dry-aging, Souranis reduces waste and intensifies flavor, producing a cured fish that Humm likened to prosciutto. This synthesis of "old knowledge and new technology" is expected to be a key influence on Humm’s upcoming projects.
Stage 3: The Athenian Synthesis
The expedition concluded in Athens, where the team explored how traditional rural flavors are translated into an urban setting. At Pharaoh, located in the Exarcheia district, they observed Chef Papoutsakis preparing dishes like chestnut stew and lamb slow-cooked with golden thistle over a live fire.
The team also visited Diporto, a legendary basement taverna near the Athens Central Market (Varvakios) that has operated since 1887. With no printed menu and a focus on simple preparations of chickpeas, fava beans, and whatever the market provides that morning, Diporto served as a reminder of the power of ingredient-led simplicity. "In other cuisines, these would have been one dish," Humm remarked on the separate bean preparations. "Here, single ingredients are celebrated."
Supporting Data: The Global Significance of the Mediterranean Model
Humm’s focus on Greece aligns with broader global trends in health and environmental science. The Mediterranean diet, particularly the Cretan iteration, has been a subject of scientific study since the landmark "Seven Countries Study" in the 1950s, which linked the region’s high consumption of olive oil, legumes, and wild greens to lower rates of cardiovascular disease and increased longevity.
Furthermore, the environmental data supporting a shift toward the Greek model is compelling. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), traditional Mediterranean farming systems often have a significantly lower carbon footprint than industrialized Western models due to their reliance on seasonal crops, local supply chains, and low-intensity livestock grazing. Humm’s advocacy for these systems is reinforced by his role as a UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador for Food Education, an appointment he received in late 2024. In this capacity, he is tasked with promoting the intersection of global foodways, biodiversity, and environmental stewardship.
Broader Impact and Implications for the New York Dining Scene
The insights gathered from this Greek immersion are slated to manifest in two primary ways: the ongoing evolution of the menu at Eleven Madison Park and the conceptualization of Humm’s new restaurant in Manhattan’s West Village, scheduled to open in late 2026.
Industry analysts suggest that Humm’s move toward a "respect-based" culinary philosophy—where meat is treated as a rare, sacred ingredient rather than a mass-produced commodity—could signal a new trend in high-end dining. This approach moves the conversation beyond the binary of vegan versus non-vegan, focusing instead on the "provenance and process" of every ingredient.
The reaction from the Greek culinary community has been one of mutual respect. Chef Manolis Papoutsakis noted that Humm’s visit highlights the global relevance of Greek traditions. "It is not just about recipes," Papoutsakis stated. "It is about a way of living that honors the land. When a chef of Daniel’s caliber takes this back to New York, it validates the work of our shepherds and farmers on a global stage."
Conclusion: The Future of Food Education
As Daniel Humm transitions from the mountains of Crete back to the kitchens of New York, his mission has expanded from culinary excellence to global food education. Through his nonprofit, Rethink Food, and his work with UNESCO, Humm is advocating for a food system that prioritizes biodiversity and historical knowledge.
The Greek expedition serves as a case study in how the world’s most celebrated culinary minds are looking backward to find a path forward. By documenting the "spiritual seriousness" of traditional food preparation, Humm is positioning himself as a bridge between ancient wisdom and modern sustainability. As the West Village project nears completion, the culinary world will be watching to see how the terraced hills of Tinos and the mitatos of Crete influence the next chapter of American fine dining. For Humm, the lesson is clear: the recipes are secondary to the respect for the earth that produces them.
